50th Anniversary of the HCNRA

Hells Canyon has a rich history ranging from indigenous settlement, mining, ranching, grazing, fishing, and recreation. The Hells Canyon National Recreation Act (HCNRA) seeks to preserve the historical, archaeological, and ecological resources of the region, while also allowing for public enjoyment.

Different Pacific Northwest tribes have used the canyon for thousands of years, most notably the Nez Perce (Nimiipuu) tribe. The Nez Perce tribe originally occupied 17 million acres in present-day Washington, Oregon, Montana, and Idaho. The tribe lived in Hells Canyon seasonally until the federal government forcibly removed them following the 1855 and 1863 contested treaties and the surrender of Chief Joseph and his people in 1877. The canyon features archaeological resources highlighting the tribe’s use of the land. Archaeological evidence shows over 500 Nez Perce pit houses (dwellings partially dug into the ground with a human-made covering) in Hells Canyon, the remnants of which can be seen as depressions in the earth. There is also evidence of caches, used for food and tool storage during fishing and camas root gathering seasons. Although the Nez Perce tribe’s original reservation from the 1855 treaty contained 7.5 million acres, land disputes and federal policies reduced the land to 750,000 acres. Through these reductions, Nez Perce have maintained their treaty rights, most notably for fishing.

The discovery of gold in the region led to miners rushing in, starting in the 1860s. Simmering racial and economic tensions led to violent conflict, though. In 1887, a group of white miners murdered a team of Chinese miners. During the subsequent decades of placer, hard rock, and hydraulic mining, individual miners and companies struggled with the costs of equipment, river transportation. and the challenges of the rough terrain. Mining largely ended by the 1970s due to diminishing mineral resources and the establishment of the HCNRA. Today, artifacts of mining activities, including structures, equipment, and tailings can be found throughout the canyon.

With 35 native species of fish, four are considered endangered. With the fear of overfishing and habitat loss there are protections from the 1973 Endangered Species Act. The three dams in Hells Canyon—Brownlee (1959), Oxbow (1969), and Hells Canyon (1967)—serve as crucial elements of the Hells Canyon Complex Hydroelectric Project, which began in 1955. Dams provide hydroelectric power but are often cited with ecological downfalls. Along with the loss of fish, the riverbeds become compromised and sediment erosion damage crucial habitats.

In the 20th century, ranching and grazing increased in the canyon. The most notable ranching families included the Kirkwoods, the Jordans, and the Wilsons. These families owned

over 17,000 acres, starting with the Kirkwood family who used the land for cattle ranching. In 1975, the Wilson family was the last family to use this land before the Act took effect. The Act led to new regulations for where sheep could graze, focusing on pre-established areas for operations. The Forest Service closely monitors these operations to ensure grazing impacts are minimal.

Hells Canyon is a place of stunning natural beauty and diverse ecosystems. The Hells Canyon National Recreation Act (HCNRA) aims to preserve traditional uses of the land, while also safeguarding the natural and cultural resources.

Throughout the Wild River areas, visitors find mountain hemlock, white bark pine, and subalpine fir trees, as well as vibrant wildflowers such as Indian paintbrush, lupine, and columbine. The Oregon/Wallowa landscape is dominated by Douglas fir and grand firs, with the forest floor adorned with trillium, fairy slipper orchids, and bleeding hearts. Along the Scenic River, the landscape changes to include western cottonwood, Oregon ash, and box elder trees, with wildflowers like balsamroot, wild rose, and blanket flowers adding splashes of color. The rich biodiversity of Hells Canyon makes it a perfect destination for nature enthusiasts and hikers alike.

Hells Canyon is home to many different living creatures. People often come to see the Rocky Mountain Elk, bighorn sheep, and black bears. The area is also home to bobcats, woodpeckers, wolves, and rattlesnakes. For bird enthusiasts, the region boasts hummingbirds, goshawks, nighthawks, owls, warblers, Canadian geese, great-horned owls, red-eyed vireos, veery thrushes, gray catbirds, yellow breasted chats, and merganser ducks. Bald eagles visit sometimes because of the abundance of fish and small creatures like ground squirrels and chipmunks. Canadian geese frequent the area in springtime during their mating and nesting season. These fauna species allow scientists to study the habitat for preservation, conservation, and environmental disease that could be harmful to everyone. Overall, this area is a part-time or full-time home to 350 different species of wildlife throughout the year.

Hells Canyon is North America’s deepest river gorge, resulting in a wide range of geological resources. Around 14,500 years ago, the Bonneville Flood sculpted the canyon. The geology in Hells Canyon falls into six categories: foliated metamorphic rocks (slate, schist, and gneiss), volcanic and volcaniclastic rocks, limestones, argillic mudstone, plutonic rocks, and basalt. These rocks tell a story spanning millions of years and different historical eras, providing a rich history of the natural creation and evolution of Hells Canyon with its igneous, sedimentary, and metamorphic strata. Cooling lava formed the igneous rocks, high compression and movement by waterways created sedimentary rocks, and finally, extreme pressure and heat deep in the earth created metamorphic rocks.

The HCNRA includes areas in Oregon, Idaho, and Washington, consisting of 652,488 acres, of which 215,233 are designated as wilderness. Three rivers are part of this area (the Rapid River in Idaho, the Imnaha in Oregon, and the Snake River in both), which spans three national forests (Wallowa-Whitman, Nez Perce, and Payette).

Before Congress created the HCNRA in 1975, the region had seen a significant increase in use, ranging from economic activities, recreation, and tourism, over the 20th century. Recreational activities such as boating, horseback riding, and hiking brought over 150,000 annual visitors to the region. Parallel to this was an increased interest in preserving the natural beauty of the canyon as well as the flow of the Snake River and Hells Canyon. Complicating the

act’s passage were concerns about how a recreation area designation might affect private land ownership and crucial resource extraction, such as mining and timber.

The establishment came after decades of turmoil and legislative effort to preserve and protect the area. The bipartisan efforts of Idaho politicians, such as Governor Cecil Andrus, Senator Frank Church, and Senator James McClure, helped achieve this. Since 1975, public opinions toward the establishment of the HCNRA have varied. The act sought to help conserve the scenic ruggedness and ecological diversity of the region while continuing to allow recreational use and development. Many people supported the creation of the HCNRA, praising it as a recreation and conservation triumph. However, some residents and businesses opposed it, with the argument being that land-use restrictions could hurt the regional economy, particularly industries such as logging and ranching. Currently, the area has increased use as a base for outdoor activities, but balancing preservation interests against the economic interests of residents continues to be a challenge.

With 35,000 annual visitors and a variety of uses, Hells Canyon is a valuable resource and destination. In 1968, Congress established the National Wild and Scenic River System to preserve the natural, cultural, historical, and recreational characteristics of rivers. In 1975, Congress added Hells Canyon to this system through the Hells Canyon National Recreation Act (HCNRA), recognizing its unique natural beauty, cultural significance, and recreational value. These protections ensure that travel and recreation in the canyon are safe and ecologically friendly.

Historically, people and goods traveled into the canyon by air or by boat. Currently, a group of pilots maintain nine open airstrips and help with trail maintenance. Boats provide transportation for the canyon’s residents and recreational opportunities for tourists, including visiting historically significant sites. There are 152 historic and recreational sites in the Canyon, including the home and sheep ranch of former Idaho governor Len B. Jordan and his wife Grace. Their home, which they lived in during the 1930s and 1940s, is now an interpretive site for the history of the Jordans and settlement in the canyon. Preserving sites such as this would not be possible without the volunteers who spend countless hours maintaining the land.

In 2016, volunteers formed the Hells Canyon Recreation Collaborative (HCRC) to cooperate with government agencies, private entities, and non-profit groups to maintain substantiable recreation access, and to protect the historic and natural resources. The HCRC’s work includes fire prevention, preservation and restoration of historical structures, trail upkeep, creation of eco-friendly bridges, and other maintenance projects. The HCRC also works to protect wildlife and other natural resources within the canyon. The HCRC relies on its partnerships, including the Forest Service, which uses a “Valuing People and Places Field Ranger Program” to connect with the public in educating them on preservation and historical significance of HCNRA. The work of the HCRC and its partners keeps the Canyon and its resources preserved for future generations.

• Barbara Blair
• Isaac George
• Tristan Hoffmann
• Haileyann Johnson
• Kade Koberstein
• Nathaniel Koeppel Willcoxson
• Carisa Liebenberg
• Jasper Luce
• Victoria Raulerson
• Dallas Roberts
• Sophia Roemer
• Emilyn Sheppard
• Jack Sheward
• Madeline Thornton
• Chloe Troxel
• Manuel Valdez